Archivio Nuziale
VI · 010
— this issue —

For those flying in.

No tourist traps. Our Italian friends each leave exactly three recommendations: one place to eat, one to see, one museum to lose a morning in. Signed and dated.

A vintage folded tourist map of Roma with a red pen mark
— the contributors —
Eat
See
Museum
  • № 01

    Giulia Bartolini

    Cortona, Toscana

    Designer. Born here. Knows which trattoria still hand-rolls the pici.

    Eat

    Trattoria Dardano

    Order the pici al ragù. Bring cash. Bring an appetite. Skip dessert and walk to the gelateria across the piazza.

    43.2754°N · 11.9851°E
    See

    Le Celle hermitage

    Walk up at sunrise. Franciscan, austere, cypresses everywhere. The path smells like rosemary and warm stone.

    43.2810°N · 11.9930°E
    Museum

    MAEC — Museo dell'Accademia Etrusca

    Etruscan bronzes. Tiny, perfect, no queue. Tuesday mornings the curator gives unprompted tours.

    43.2748°N · 11.9846°E
  • № 02

    Lorenzo Conti

    Firenze

    Sommelier. Drives a Vespa with a baguette on the back, unironically.

    Eat

    Trattoria Mario

    Lunch only. Bistecca alla fiorentina. Share a table with strangers; that's the point.

    43.7760°N · 11.2519°E
    See

    Cappelle Medicee — the New Sacristy

    Skip the Uffizi for a morning. Stand under Michelangelo's tombs in the empty room at opening.

    43.7752°N · 11.2531°E
    Museum

    Museo dell'Opera del Duomo

    Donatello's wooden Magdalene will undo you. Allow an hour you won't remember.

    43.7732°N · 11.2562°E
  • № 03

    Chiara De Luca

    Roma

    Photographer. Will be ours, on the day. Knows the city by its keyholes.

    Eat

    Pianostrada

    Trastevere, in a courtyard. Order the focaccia. Order another focaccia. Stay for the negroni.

    41.8902°N · 12.4678°E
    See

    Aventine keyhole

    The view of St. Peter's framed by a hedge, through an iron keyhole. Go at 7am. You will be alone.

    41.8839°N · 12.4781°E
    Museum

    Galleria Borghese

    Book three weeks ahead. Bernini's marble. Once you've seen the Daphne, you've seen everything.

    41.9143°N · 12.4924°E
— Italian guests only —

Add your three.

One place to eat, one to see, one museum. No chains. No Tripadvisor. Just the thing you would tell your favourite cousin.